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Books from Amazon:

Algae
by
Linda E. Graham and Lee W. Wilcox
£ $

Green Algae Strategy:
End Biowar I
and Engineer Sustainable Food and Biofuels
by
Mark Edwards
£ $

Pond Owner's Handbook
(Your Questions Answered)
by
John A. Dawes
£ $

A Practical Guide to Creating a Garden Pond and Year-round Maintenance (Pondmaster)
by
Graham Quick
£ $

An Essential Guide to Choosing Your Pond Fish and Aquatic Plants (Tankmaster)
by
Graham Quick
£ $

Creating a Koi Pond: An Essential Guide to Building and Maintaining (Pondmaster)
by
Keith Holmes
and Tony Pitham
£ $

The Wildlife Pond Handbook:
A Practical Guide to Creating and Maintaining Your Own Wetland
for Wildlife
by
Charlie Dimmock and Louise Bardsley
£ $

Your Healthy Garden Pond
(Pond & Aquatic)
by
Steve Halls
£ $

Small Freshwater Creatures
(Natural History Pocket Guides)
by
Lars-Henrik Olsen, Bente Vita Pedersen, and Jakob Sunesen
£ $

 
 
Blagdon Electronic Blanket Weed Controller
£

Nishikoi Goodbye Blanketweed.
A unique,
 bio-product consisting of bacteria cultured on barley straw, enzymes and activated barley straw.
£

Solar powered oxygenator pump
£

Tornado pond vac
£

Biological
pond filter 
£

 
 

Souvenirs From Spain - www.souvenirs-from-spain.com

Sent to you anywhere in the world:

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The Control of
Blanket Weed Algae in Ponds

by Jack Cox

 

Green Algae are primitive aquatic plants that differ from other plants in that they have no true stems, leaves or roots. They have a place in the overall food chain as they are able to photosynthesise, converting the energy of the sun into food for other aquatic life. In the presence of sunlight, they produce oxygen, thus helping to increase the level of dissolved oxygen in the water. However, like all green plants, they use oxygen at night.  Oxygen is also taken out of the water when they die and decay.

 

There are over 20,000 different species of green algae in the world but the one we are concerned with here is Blanket weed (Cladophora glomerata). This is the one which causes most problems in freshwater systems around the world although there are actually over 150 different species of Cladophora.

 

In natural ecosystems blanketweed has its place and knows its place.  However it loves Nitrate and Phosphate and when these nutrients are present in the water in excessive concentrations, blanketweed takes advantage of it and just grows and grows. Phosphate is really the limiting factor for plant growth, rather than Nitrate. Of course your fish also require a certain amount of phosphate, so their formulated feeds contain quite a lot of it and any excess is released into the water to feed your algae.

 

Remember that food enters the fish at one end and something else comes out of the other end. It then decomposes in the pond releasing ammonia which is broken down to nitrite and then to nitrate through the activity of bacteria.  Both nitrite and nitrate are good sources of nitrogen for plants including algae.

 

As a responsible finca owner I am sure you manage your land organically but maybe your neighbours do not.  In wet weather fertiliser can run off your neighbour's land onto yours or seep into the ground water.  From there it easily gets into your pond or lake, especially if you fill it from a well.  Runoff from animal pens and horse stables can also get into your pond.

 

Blanket Weed is a type of Filamentous Algae. It forms as thread-like structures that can be floating or attached to submerged items such as the pond walls or aquatic plants. The common name “blanket weed" is an excellent description as it can quickly form a thick blanket over the surface of your pond, shutting out sunlight. In very high light levels, such as here in Spain, and with high levels of nutrients, blanket weed can grow at over 2 metres a day.

 

Other similar algae which may cause problems in ponds include species of Spirogyra, Rhizoclonium and Enteromorpha, indeed there are over 400 different species of the genus Spirogyra around the world.

 

Spirogyra tends to appear in ponds as a tangled pond scum. It is also called “water silk”, “silk weed” and “mermaid tresses”. On sunny days, the mats of spirogyra filaments usually float on the surface of the water. They are kept afloat by tiny bubbles of oxygen which the plant gives off during photosynthesis.

 

These algal mats then sink when the sun goes down and the process reverses as photosynthesis stops for the night. As a result, the strands of Spirogyra consume oxygen for cellular respiration. Carbon dioxide is then produced as a waste product. Where there are such thick algal mats, large fluctuations in the dissolved carbon dioxide and oxygen levels in the water can occur. This can lead to rapid changes in the pH of the water that in turn can cause stress and even death to other organisms such as fish.

 

Enteromorpha intestinalis is another form of blanket weed that occurs in ponds. It is tubular in form and seldom grows longer than about 40cm. There are over 50 different species of the genus Enteromorpha. And lets not forget the 20 or more species of the filamentous genus Rhizoclonium.

 

So there are a lot of different potential algal blooms which cause blanket, 'pea soup' or floating scum conditions. As well as looking unsightly, excessive algal growth, encouraged by surplus nutrients, can lead to de-oxygenation of water with a consequent detrimental effect on aquatic life. Of course the presence of algae in ponds need not necessarily cause a problem but in most cases it does sooner or later and its probably a good idea to remove it periodically.

 

As with most things, prevention is better than cure. Here are some useful guidelines:

 

Depth of water: Ensure a minimum pool depth of 75cm as shallow pools warm more rapidly, especially under the hot Spanish sun. You can use black liners to minimise heat reflecting into the water.

 

Minimise nutrients: Remove any soil from the pool before filling it, and only immerse plants in containers of aquatic compost, surfaced with shingle. Apply fertilisers to nearby lawns and vegetable beds carefully, as run-off can occur after heavy rain.

 

Barley straw: Submerge mesh bags of barley straw or lavender clippings just below the water's surface in early spring. Replace them when they turn black. The straw encourages phytoplankton grazing organisms. Also as the barley straw rots, through the action of bacteria and fungi, it gives off certain phenolic phytotoxic compounds, chemicals which prevents the algae from growing. The bacteria and fungi which produce these special chemicals will only thrive in very well aerated water, so the straw needs to be placed near a water fall, or close to the surface of the pond. If the water is not well aerated, the straw simply decomposes, adding further pollution to the pond without the release of this phytotoxic chemicals. Where barley straw is used correctly, it can be very effective. Roughly 50g of straw per cubic metre of water seems about right, depending on the severity of the problem, although it can be a bit hit and miss. You can also get liquid extract of barley straw to make dosing much simpler.

 

Plant up the pond: It can help to add plants to the pond to compete with the algae for available nutrients. Water lilies are most peoples' favourites. Watercress (Nasturtium officinale or N. microphyllum) is also popular and will readily compete well for available nutrients.  However, this is also quite an invasive plant and needs to be controlled by regular pruning to prevent it from also becoming a nuisance. Make sure that at least one third of the pool's surface area is covered by the leaves of oxygenating plants or other aquatic plants. Avoid over-stocking with fish, as they produce nutrient-rich waste.

 

Leaves and debris: Cover the pond with netting in autumn to prevent leaves falling in as they are a source of nutrients.

 

Changing the water: Avoid changing the water as this upsets the natural ecological balance. Remove blanket weed with a rake; duckweed can be skimmed off or removed using a net. Remove sunken debris every few years. Clean ponds in early summer, after aquatic life has bred. Divide aquatic plants at this time.

 

Pond filters: Pond filters can be installed to clean the water and remove algae and nutrients through mechanical and / or biological methods.  There are several different kinds available. 

 

UV Light: Planktonic algae (but not blanketweed) can be controlled in ponds by installing ultra violet lighting. Ultra-violet is a wavelength of light which has unique properties, we are very conscious of its strength as it tans our skin. Ultra-violet light damages the algae cells which prevents them from converting energy from sunlight into sugars and in the absence of a food resource, they die. The light unit is left to run continually and once the algae have died it will keep the water clear, by preventing further blooms. The ultra-violet light needs to have an electrical source and to be connected to a pump in order to circulate the water through the unit. There is a range of filter units which have ultra-violet units fitted as an integral part of the system but there is also a wide range of manufactured lights which can be installed separately. But this article is not about Planktonic algae and UV lights have no effect on filamentous or macrophytic algae so finca owners must find other control methods.

 

Ultrasound: Trials at the Centre for Aquatic Plant Management found promising results in the use of ultrasound to control pond algae. A device left permanently in the water emits ultrasound waves and works by shaking apart the algae cell wall, leading to algae death within 7-21 days. Currently it appears to be most effective on blanket weed. There appears to be no adverse effect on pond wildlife but more research is being conducted in this area. The equipment is not cheap to buy, but may be worth considering for larger ponds or hired for shorter periods where other methods of control have failed. 

 

Crayfish: Crayfish will eat blanket weed as well as your other plants and marginals. However throughout Europe there are very stringent regulations governing the introduction of any crayfish to any open water, including garden ponds.  There are very good reasons for these new rules.  There has been a huge problem caused by the introduction of exotic species of crayfish, which are rapidly taking over the habitat of our three native European species (Astacus astacus , A. leptodactylus and A. pachypus).

 

Furthermore our native crayfish are being decimated by 'crayfish plague' (Aphanomyces astaci), a water mould brought over by ships and also carried by the invading species especially the Signal Crayfish  (Pacifastacus leniusculus). Once infected our European Astacus crayfish die within a few weeks. When experimentally tested, species from Australia, New Guinea and Japan were also found susceptible to the infection. It is believed that all species of crayfish world wide are susceptible to one degree or another.

 

The mould first arrived in Italy in 1860 with ballast waters from a North American ship and quickly spread through Europe. From there it spread quickly through Europe and was discovered in Sweden in 1907, in Norway in 1971, here in Spain in 1972, in the United Kingdom in 1981, in Turkey in 1984 and in Ireland in 1987.

 

This American mould has now wiped out large populations of our native European Crayfish. Unfortunately in the 1950s and the 1960s, the Swedes tried to find a replacement crayfish that could resist the mould. They decided on the Signal crayfish  (Pacifastacus leniusculus.  As this is an American species indigenous to the western United States it does have a high level of immunity to the plague. But the Signal Crayfish is also a carrier of the plague.  Efforts to reintroduce the original European Crayfish have been quite unsuccessful because of subsequent large importations of signal crayfish, most of them done illegally on private initiative.  So please do not be tempted to put exotic crayfish into your pond in an attempt to control blanketweed.

 

Cures for Blanket Weed: When prevention fails there are several cures on the market, physical, chemical and microbial. If you have been reading my other articles you will be in no doubt about what I think about chemical methods and you will not be surprised when I suggest you try some natural methods first.

 

It is possible to physically remove blanket weed from the pond and there is an assortment of
tools available to help twist the blanket weed and lift it out of the water. Where there is only a little blanket weed growth, these tools are quite useful in controlling this algae.

 

Although I have not tried them yet, one reader has suggested the use of Viresco™ microbial products.  Apparently these reduce the phosphate and completely remove the nitrate from the water and the blanketweed just starves to death. If you want to give it a go, there website is: http://www.viresco-uk.com .  Another good eco friendly product is Hydra POND CLEAR™ from http://www.pondclear.eu/

 

Please do write in and let us all know how you get or, or indeed to tell us of any other methods you have tried. 

 

One Parting Thought:  How about considering Blanketweed as a useful resource, a crop to be grown and harvested.  It is high in plant nutrients, rots down quickly on the compost heap, and makes a great weed suppressing mulch to use between your rows of vegetables.  And best of all ITS FREE !!!

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